Cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg and allspice combine together to create the smells of winter and the winter holidays. In the Eastern Mediterranean, two additional spices are used: mastic and mahlab.
- Mahlab or mahlepi is an aromatic spice made from the seeds of the St Lucie Cherry (Prunus mahaleb). The cherry stones are cracked to extract the seed kernel, which is about 5 mm diameter, soft and chewy on extraction, but ground to a powder before use. The flavour is similar to a combination of bitter almond and cherry.
- Mastic: is a resin obtained from the mastic tree (Pistacia lentiscus). In pharmacies and Nature shops it is called “arabic gum” (not to be confused with gum arabic) and “Yemen gum”. In Greece it is known as the “tears of Chios,” being traditionally produced on that Greek island, and, like other natural resins is produced in “tears” or droplets. Originally liquid, it is sun-dried into drops of hard brittle translucent resin. When chewed, the resin softens and becomes a bright white and opaque gum. The flavor is bitter at first, but after chewing releases a refreshing, slightly piney or cedar flavor.
Here is a simple recipe for Vassilopita, the Greek New Year’s Bread, I use both of the spices. You may to choose just one the first time so that you can see which one you like. It may seem foreign and odd at first.
If you have a scale, it’s best to use the scale. If not, use a handy dandy measurement conversion application.
Ingredients:
260 grams orange pulp
250 grams olive oil
400 grams sugar
500 grams all purpose flour
5 eggs
1 teaspoon baking poweder
5 drops of mastic oil, or 1 teaspoon powder
1 teaspoon mahlab.
Directions:
- Boil the oranges whole for about one hour. Wait till they are cool. Cut in half and remove the seeds. Process in a food processor and then let them sit in a strainer till the water bits come out.
- Combine the olive oil and orange pulp.
- In a mixer beat the eggs and sugar till they are airy and seem fluffy.
- Add the orange with olive oil mixture.
- Combine the dry ingredients till they are nice and smooth.
- Bake for one hour at 350.
- When cool, sprinkle powdered sugar.
- If you are making for New Years, when it cools, take a coin, wrap in foil and insert in the bottom.
It’s a wonderful seasonal easy sweet bread. Works like a fruit cake. You can eat with feta, marmalade, or just plain.
Anthony Bourdain: Writing Challenge
Anthony Bourdain’s favorite answer will get published in the paperback edition of his bestselling book, Medium Raw! Plus, Anthony Bourdain will award a Special Added Prize of $10,000 to the Grand Prize Winner.
I despise challenges. I hate that this is probably some kind of marketing scheme to use the “social media” to push a book. It seems that everything now a days on the internet is some kind of trick for hits or monetizing the internet for some corporation that has not figured out how to make content profitable. I stopped writing at Open Salon cause all food writing was reduced to a food challenge. The same people keep posting the same dull ideas about food. Recipes, recipes mixed with precious, recipes mixed with evocative, recipes with perfection, recipes with wanting to be chosen by the one making the challenge.
I cook well, I think, cause I want to cook well, My mother cooked well and therefore my family ate well. I cook well, my family eats well. It’s an age old racket. You cook well cause you like to eat. It’s not new, it’s not an epiphany. It’s human. All humans like to do it, cook well that is.
The well part is relative within nations, regions and families. It makes us tribal. It’s how I think us women used to mark our men and children. You create a flavor, then it becomes a memory and you then live in their heads and their stomachs. I still try to recreate some tastes my mother made, I make them, but they don’t taste like hers. They are well cooked, but not “her way of cooking well”.
